Living Delhi / Tuk Tuk Bhai - Part 2 -

When the train arrived at the station, i took the subway and headed to Qtub Minar. While my stay in Rajasthan, i had regularily Vicky on the phone, and he had insisted a lot: he wanted me to stay at his home, with his family, this time...

Arrived at the Qtub Minar Metro Station, Vicky, Luv and Mahi are there, waiting for me as they knew i was arriving around midday at the train station. Rahul him, was gone with customers (He and Mahi share a Tuk Tuk they rent to a company, as Luv. Vicky as his own "Auto".). We went to have a Chaï (of course...) and Vicky explained me that he had problems with his family and that he couldn't host me, finally. But Luv, offered to host me at his parent's house. We went to eat a Thali (once again they didn't let me pay...) at a mobile canteen in the street, then Vicky and I went to the Dargha/Duna, to Chill for the end of the afternoon. At night, As I had asked him, Vicky took me to Mehrauli, where his cousins grow pigs in the nearby forest (yes, New Delhi is so huge that there are a lot of big parcs, forests etc... between its different areas....), And they sell pork meat, raw or fried. As i had not ate meat since at least one month (in india, most of people are vegetarians, or don't eat often some meat. So, sometimes, you can find some only near the butchers...So if you stay with Indians, you're not going to eat some very often.), I had asked vicky to take me there to eat a little porc & bacon... then we went to the Duna, where Luv joined us later with Rahul, and after a moment, Luv and I took his Tuk Tuk, to go to Geeta Colony, where his family lives.

At the metro station, the guys are waiting for customers

The water/soda trolley

a food trolley

Arrived at his house, he introduiced me to his family: His parents, Naresh and Anita, and his brother, Sunny. Naresh is now retired. Anita is a doctor, and as she is working for the government in a dispensary, she has an official apartment, where the family lives. Sunny is working in computer engineering. Anita brought us some food, and Luv and I ate, sitting on the big bed, while watching the news on TV.

To sleep, Anita left me her place on the bed, close to the A.C. (In India, as in many asian countries, many people use to sleep dressed, or almost, wrapped in a blanket). First, i refused, but they explained me that i was their "guest", and in Indian Culture & Tradition, a Guest must be treated with Honnor, like a 'God"... So i finally accepted, a bit embarrassed and i joined Luv and his father to sleep on the big bed, while Anita slept in the other room, on a matress, Sunny on the couch, as he used to do. In the morning, after a shower, a Chai and a few biscuits, Luv and I went back to Qtub Minar. 

Naresh, Anita and Bankebihari "Luv" Dixit (sorry for Sunny who was missing when we took the pic...)s...)

There, we had a chaï, and as the guys where starting to work, i gave a phonecall to Nittin and savita to ear some news from them. Nittin's phone was off, and when i had savita on the phone, she told me straight, crying, that they where arguying all the time, and were probably going to divorce... So i left my brothers at the metro station and went straight to Sangham Vihar to visit Savita.

Once at the flat, we sat around a chaï and a few biscuits, and savita explains me what has happenned since i left them one month and a half before. A few minutes later, Nittin, warned that i was back, arrives, give me a strong hug and he explains me his problems.

After a few hours, I went with Savita to fetch Kavya at school (He was now going to school since one month). And at night, i went back to Qtub Minar to meet Luv before going back to geeta colony with him.

There, we first stopped at a crossroad, not far from his home. there, a trolley sells cigarettes, water, sodas and Bujias*. The two young guys who run the business are good friends of Luv, so he introduice them to me. They're very nice and friendly guys, and as all the brothers of my Bhais, they don't want to let me pay anything, and offer me all... (as they refused my money, i've left a bill, half hidden in the middle of the stuffs on the trolley... ;-) ). They intoduice me to their families, wife and kids. I'm quite surprised because they seem quite young to me (around 20...), then i remember that in Indian tradition, people use to get married and have kids much earlier than in western countries... They live there, just behin their stalls, in tents. They are the poorest people, slumdogs, but they are the warmest and the kindest people i've met. we talk about all that's life (Luv talk to me about his "secret "girlfriend...)  After a moment, we went back home, where Anita was expecting us.

As my theeth problems had came back, once again, it was quite difficult for me to eat properly (I was unable to chew or almost, even chapati...) So i asked them if they knew a good dentist (remember, Anita is Doctor...).

While my stay at the Dixit's house, I've been very curious about the rituals Luv was doing in his home temple: I had already seen Savita doing offerings, incantations & prayers to Kali at home, but there it was not the same.... In a display cabinet, some small statues of the gods, arranged in circular arc are Dressed with shiny clothes, like dolls. in the middle of them, the main god for Luv: Lord Krishna. Every morning, Luv or his mother, open the curtains and the lights (and the little music too) in the cabinet. They "wake up" Lord Krishna, who is laying in a small bed, for the night. They clean him and change his clothes, they take off the night-bed, and set the statue for the day, give him offerings and make prayers. Same at night, to lay him for the night.. Off course, it's very unusual for a foreigner like me, but i found it nice: all the religions have their proper uses, and that's also what makes the world rich: The Differences...

* Bujias are fried snacks that you can find everywhere and eat at anytime.

Mahi in his Auto-rickshaw

Luv with some customers

In the morning, we left home and went back to the crossroad, to meet Luv's friends. Luv wanted to take me to the dentist, but he was already late to go to work, and he didn't want me to go by my own, alone. So he asked to his friends to take me there and he left. We stayed a moment at the stall, as in the beginning of the morning, many customers come there, and stop on the way to their work... Once the rush-hour passed, we left to go to the dentist, walking.

In the streets, people were very surprised to see a foreigner, walking escorted by young streetboys, and i let you imagine the secretary and the dentist's face when my "bodyguards" came into his office to ask if he can cure me...

After this first encounter with the dentist, I had, at last, the good medicine that was impossible to find elsewhere, and 2 days later, I got rid, at last of this inconveniant infection.

We came back to the crossroad with the guys, and after a chaï, I left them and came back home, where I spent the afternoon working on my computer and talking with Naresh. At night, when Luv came back home, we ate (I was very surprised, and extremely touched, once again: without a word, as a loving mother, Anita had prepared special meals for me, that wouldn't be hard to eat...) and after a last chill on the rooftop, we went to sleep.

The Trolley of Luv's "Bhai" at the crossroad

one of the kids

Two days later, on a sunday night, Luv and Mahi wanted to take me to a very special religious ceremony dedicated to one of Lord Shiva's avatar: Bhairo Baba.

I had already heard about it, in the "safety recommandations" made by the french foreign affairs ministry, to the travellers staying in Delhi... It was highly not recommended...

Bhairo baba is the god of the topers, the alcohol lovers, some would say the drunkards god.

Before going to the ceremony, at the temple, we stopped to buy a bottle of whisky at a government's shop (In India, alcohol is sold in "official" shops).

The surroundings of the temple are crowded with people, partying, and with beggars, sitting on the ground, drinking the whisky, gin and beers that the people give them. We buy a few offerings (flowers, candles...), we take off our shoes and we go into to temple, following the queue of pilgrims, leading to the statues of the god. In front of the god, people light their candles, and give their offerings to priests who will spread the offerings on and around the god. Then, after a few prayers and blessings, we leave our candles to the priests who will put them at good place to burn till their end.

Out of the temple, i'm surprised: the guys still have the bottle of whisky (i thought it was an offering...). We go back to the Tuk Tuk, and the guys clean it, and dispose now offerings (flowers) on it. Reciting incantations, Luv opens the bottle and start to spread the whisky on the auto-rickshaw, to bless it. He, then, drinks a mouthfull and pass the bottle to Mahi, who do the same, spreading, blessing, drinking, and Mahi passed me the bottle, so i did exactly the same, without a word. Some pilgrims, surprised to see me there, came, and started to talk to me, so i explained them that i was there with my Bhais, whom had taken me there. They asked me how i was feeling, how did i found all this kind of agitation, which i repplied, laughing and a bit drunk : "I love Indian Culture !" We all laughed like buddies, and once again, the guys wanted to take me with them, here or there, to party or to meet friends, but i declined the invitations: I stayed with my two brothers, and later, we dropped Mahi at his place before going back home.

Bhairo baba Temple, in new delhi. sorry, the picture isn't mine, i didn't took pics that night.... :-D

The next day, I packed my stuffs, gave a big hug to Anita and Naresh, and thanked them a lot for their kindness. Luv and I went to Qtub Minar, where we met Rahul and Vicky.

I was leaving by plane, early in the morning, so i was going to sleep at Vicky's house that night, because it is closer from the airport...

So, at night, we chilled in a parc, in Mehrauli, with Vicky, Luv, Mahi and Rahul, to spend a last evening together, and later, the guys went back to their homes and i went with Vicky to his.

At 5:00 a.m in the morning, a Taxi, friend of Vicky was there, waiting for me in the street. After a last Hug, I left my Bro and his sweet family, the day was just starting to rise.

In the park, at Merhauli, at night.

Almost three month later, I came back to Delhi.

I had to go back to the dentist, and i wanted to go in the north of India, at the sources of the Gangas River. And from there head to Nepal which borders had just reopenned two month after the terrible earthquake that had hit it...

So, i had sent a message to my friends in delhi, and all of them had offered to host me, straight.

This time, i choosed to stay with Vicky and his family. So, once out of the airport, I called Vicky, to tell him I had just arrived, and i took a bus, to go to the closest Metro Station. Once in Qtub Minar, I meet my Bhais, we have a Chaï, a Chillum, we are happy to be together again.

Then, Vicky and I went to mehrauli, to his house, where we ate and after a last chillum on the rooftop, we slept.

In the morning, after a chaï and a shower, we went to a small garden, not far from Vicky's home, He use to come here, almost every morning, with his dog following him, to take a little care of the garden and the vegetables that grows here. Then he goes to work and his dog goes back-home.

After a Chaï with the others, at the metro station, I spent the day in town, and as usually, in the end of the afternoon, i went back to meet my friends, before going back To Geeta Colony with Luv to spend the evening with him and his family (I had brought back small presents for everyone with me...).

In the morning, i went back to visit the dentist, alone, (this time, we had to schedule a surgery, to take off and replace my infected teeth) and after that, I went in town, In Hauz Kahs, where i had noticed many galleries, to visit and make contacts before going back to Qtub Minar.

Me, and Vicky's friends at the garden in Mehrauli

Once at the Metro station, I find Vicky, and other people trooped around something i can't see. So i come closer, said hi to my Bro, and surprise, all those people are watching guys trying to heal an injured cow ! Because of the crazy traffic in Delhi, it often happens that holi cows get hurt, injured by cars etc... So, there is a "Cow Ambulance Service", to heal the injured holi-cows ! Once the animal is ready to walk again, it is left on his own, and return to it's "holi life"....

We went to the Duna with Vicky, and as the weather was very hot (July, just before moonsoon, =/- 48°c), he told me i could refresh by bathing in the old watertank just beside. In The area of Mehrauli, where is Qtub Minar, the Dargha and where Vicky and his family live, there's a few ancient watertankers. Young people bath in it, some others do their washingup or wash themselves there too. Vicky assures me that it is clean and pure groundwater, coming from the deep underground. I have a few doubts, but all, around and at the Duna (even the Baba) assure me so too. So, I take of my clothes and go into the water. I'm surprised, because it is really fresh (they where right, pure groundwater), and the contrast with the hot and dusty air of Delhi is nice. In fact, it's better inside than outside....

Many people, kids etc came, surprised to see me, a lonely tourist, swimming into the watertank with kids. after 5 minutes, i went out, got dry, and went back under the big tent of the Duna to share a Chaï.

At night, we went to eat pork at his cousin's shop before going back home. There, Vicky had an argument with his parents, and he explained me that his parents where not ok to host me: Vicky has already had problems with the police by hosting foreigners at his home... So the fact that i'm staying there is worrying them... (It happened a few times during the end of my stay in Delhi that the cops put pressure on Vicky, and on me too ("Don't Stay with them, go back to your hôtel !"...) for us not to stay together..... So i told Vicky and Priyam (his wife) i would leave the next morning, because i did not wanted to be a problem for anyone...

The cow ambulance

The watertank in Merhauli

The next morning, I took my stuff and Left the house with Vicky. A few days earlier, i had given a phonecall to Nittin & Savita, to get some of their news. Nittin had explained me that they had shifted appartment, and area, and that he had closed the shop in Sangham Vihar and oppenned a new one not far from their new flat. Things were getting a little better between them, and they were no longer talking about a divorce... I had told them i would come to visit them in their new place soon, so i took the Metro to Saket, and from there a Tuk Tuk to Dakshinpuri where Nittin was expecting me. There, he  took me to their new flat, where i was happy to meet Savita and Kavya.

I spent a few days in Dakshinpuri, mostly resting, because the weather was really very hot. Some days, i had to go to the dentist, in Geeta Colony, with the traffic, it took me up to 8 hours on the road (tuk-tuk, metro, tuk tuk, walking.....) to go from the flat in Dakshinpuri, to the dentist (for a 5 minutes consultation...) and back-home..... (As Luv had told me they had some family at home, i had not asked them if i could stay with them, to let them enjoy their family...). Delhi can be really awfull for the traffic....

Dakshinpuri at night

One Day, Vicky had asked me to come with him and his family, to take pictures of them: Priyam (Vicky's wife) 's sister was visiting Delhi for a few days, so it was a good occasion for a family outing. I met him at Qtub Minar, and we went to the "Kalka Ji" and the "Lotus Temple".
and after, Vicky wanted to go to visit some of his family, so we took the car, and went to visit a fist "branch" of his family. There, we had Chai, and a few biscuits and Bujia. After a moment, we left to go to visit an other "branch" of the family, another Chaï, other pictures, other laughs, kisses and hugs, and we left to go to visit a third and last part of the family. When we arrived at their home, it was already 11:00 p.m. , They where already sleeping ! When they heard knock on the door, they got up, and where so surprised to see us all (Vicky, Priyam, her sister, the two kids and me) smiling in front of the door... We didn't stayed long, as they were sleepy, but off course, we had a Chaï !

We went back at Mehrauli it was already 1:00 a.m. and the whole house was already sleeping. I slept there that night, because it was easier for us all, and vicky and I left discreetly in the morning, without seeing his parents....

the family at Kalka Ji

Inside the Temple

On the way to the Lotus

taking a portrait of Priyam

The sisters

Family n° 1

Family n° 2

Family n° 3

One afternoon, the heavy clouds began to let go a few drops. As many, i went to the rooftop, happy to refresh a bit with the light rain. I told myself Ok, it's good, Moonsoon starts, it's going to get fresher now.... In fact not at all : the first rain doesn't last much more than half an hour, and after, the heat comes-back, but this time humid: even worse ! Then, each day, it rains longer, more and more, and 4 days latter, it's really moonsoon: heavy rain, the air gets really colder (about 25°C), flooded streets, etc.... It gets harder to circulate, but you can live almost normally, what is just very hard or impossible with the heat of the last "hot days", you just lay/sit in front of the cooler/A.C. for the afternoon, waiting for the temperature to get down a bit.

Because of the humidity, my camera felt out of order... So i asked to nittin to take me to Nehru's place, where is the electronic market/bazaar in Delhi. Two days later my camera was working almost anew... So the time had came, for me to leave Delhi, to go to the north, to see the Holi cities on the Ganga rivers, and later to Nepal. Nittin (who is also a guide for his birth country, Himachal, etc..) told me that i should go to Haridwar, that i'll make good pictures there, and that i would appreciate the vibes there... Luv told me on the phone that he was going on holidays there, a few days later, and that we should meet there... (that wasn't possible finally)

I took a Rickshaw in the middle of the morning, leaving Dakshinpuri and my Family there, to go to the bus station, where i took a bus to Rishikesh/Haridwar.

I arrived in Delhi in the middle of the night, alone. I knew that it would be an awesome experience to live like an Indian, to understand a bit more the awesome and incredibble Indian Culture. But I was not prepared to all the Brotherhood, the Kindness that India and it's people gave to me.

I left Delhi, leaving behind me, untill the next time, my three Indian Families.

Thanks for all that we've shared

I Love Indian Culture !!!

n.b: I am still in touch with the Dixit, Nittin & Savita, Vicky, Rahul and Mahi through social networks...

This whole article, part 1 and especially this second part is dedicated to the memory of my "Brother" Bankebihari "Luv" Dixit, who saddly passed away on the 13th of october 2016. R.I.P my Bro.

My Bhai Luv

The "Smartness of the Heart". India is a country that you must see with your heart first, before looking it with your eyes.