About the Sacred

When i arrived in Haridwar, i took a rickshaw at the bus station and asked him to take me to the ghats*. A few minutes later, he stopped in front of a small hotel i had indicated him. There, i dropped my bag and settled for a few days before heading to the river. I was quite impatient, Ganga river is very famous through out the world, and of course, it is for sure the holiest river.

But at first, it was a bit complicated to access the river: on this side of the river, and in that part of the city, most of the ghats are private ones, belonging to properties, ashrams, hotels, etc... Finally, a bridge, So i crossed over the river.

On this side of the river, there is no buildings, only long ghats along the Ganga, and people bathing, praying with family or friends. I walked along the shore, stopping to talk with the many people who were coming to me, smiling. During my trip in India, many of my friends and hosts were also my teachers. They taught me Indian uses, Indian culture, Introduced me to Hindu religion and gave me many advices about what to do, and how to comport myself with the people here and there, depending their local culture. All of them had told me about the incredibble kindness and welcoming behaviour of the people in northern India, and on that point, like on all the others, they were totally right.

Later, on another bridge, I join the pilgrims going to the main ghat, Har Ki Pauri. There, as it's the middle of the afternoon now, the place is full of pilgrims, bathing, making offerings and praying. From loud speakers music and prayers are spread in the air, the athmosphere is joyfull. Whole families, from all India, come here to bath in the holi river. They hope to be washed of their sins, body and soul purified. Young guys are also playing, jumping into the water from the bridges, under the acclamations of their friends and under the eyes of the people around.

Har Ki Pauri, the main ghats in Haridwar.

Har Ki Pauri in the afternoon.

In the main street, the activity is also full: many rickshaws coming and going, bringing and taking away the many pilgrims. Many shops are selling various objects for the devotees: statues of the gods, Rudrakshas, incenses, color powders, candles..... you can also find flowers and many pastries, sweets for the offerings..... and because pilgrims also love them...

A bit more far, you can find many restaurants, canteens where you can eat Thalis. Thali is a very cheap meal (between 60 and 110 Rupees !) that you can find almost everywhere in India: in a compartimented plate, you have several vegetables recipes, served with rice and Chapati (the typical bread in north & west India). As long as you're not satiated, the waiters will serve you more and more food. That's the main reason why no-one dies of hunger in India, because vegetables are very cheap, and the poorest will always find someone to pay him a Thali.

Later, in the evening, at dusk, I went back to Har Ki Pauri. At night, the pilgrims gather for the night ceremonies. On the ghâts, priests (white and red lines drawn on the forhead) are leading the ceremonies, telling incantations, drawing magic signs in the air with burning oil-lamps, and throwing flowers into the Ganga river. Around them, and on the opposite ghât, thousands of pilgrims are watching. As one of them, i observe the scene, and the people around me, kind of extatic, with enlighted eyes: to me, the Sacred is in Life.

Later, once the ceremony is over, most of them stay on the ghâts, singing, praying, burning candles and putting offerings on the water of the Holi Ganga (little cups made of tree-leaves, containing flowers, rice, and a candle.), which are slowly driven away by the current.

The crowd at night in Har Ki Pauri.

The evening ceremony in Har Ki Pauri. (with the help & accompliceship of Anand Bahuguna / Rishikesh Writtings.)

After the main ceremony, pilgrims praying and making offerings.

The next day, in the afternoon, as i was walking close to the ghats, i noticed a young woman sitting on the stairs, and bathing her young kid into the river. As i found it interresting, i asked her if i could take their picture. she agreed with a smile. Once the picture shot, i took of my flip flops and sat next to her to show her the photo. she told me that bathing is good for the soul, and that i should do it too. River Ganga is, sadly, also famous for its polution... But here, as Haridwar is quite close to the mountains of its springs, the river is clean and you can bath in it without being affraid for your health. So i took off my tee-shirt and trousers and went down to the inferior step of the ghat. First, I was taken by surprise and shout a little, because the water is really very cold ! The woman laughed. I took off my glasses, left them on my clothes, pinched my nose and immersed myself into the water.

When i left Haridwar, in the bus, i thought about all i had experienced and shared with the pilgrims during my stay, and i realised that during those three days, i had not met or seen any other foreigner in the whole city...

Through the world, India has always been known as a land of Spirituality, Faith and Devotion, and Hindu religion seems very complicated for someone who comes from a different culture, but how passionning and wonderfull it is when you start to know, to understand it**.

With Gratitude to all my teachers.

* The ghats are the stairs along the side of the river or the lakes that allow pilgrims to bath safely into the holi waters.

** available for all religions.

Rudraksha - Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rudraksha